Show Us Your Iray Renders. Part IV

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  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054
    edited August 2015
    Tobor said:

    KyotoKid, Probably best not to change things unless you know scriping. But, you can see the base calculations they are doing. The value gets passed to the Iray engine, which -- from posts on other forums -- doesn'tseem to have an endmic problem with mesh intensities. It would just be easier to start adding zeros until you get the look you want. Maybe Daz will simplify this in future versions.

     

    ...yeah that's my thinking.  Don't want to bugger something up if I do it wrong.  That's why I initially jumped on Iray, as to fine tune 3DL, you have to use it in scripting mode.

    Post edited by kyoto kid on
  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054
    mjc1016 said:
    kyoto kid said:
    mjc1016 said:

    KyotoKid...which version of Studio are you running?

    Fishtales...same question.

     

     

    ...4.8.0.59 x64.

     

    Fishtales said:
    kyoto kid said:
    mjc1016 said:

    KyotoKid...which version of Studio are you running?

    Fishtales...same question.

     

     

    ...4.8

    4.8.0.59 .....64 bit

     

    I asked because there are some differences between the current version and the last beta version in light behavior...or at least some I noticed.  But since both of you are running the same version, that compounds the strangeness, instead of clearing anything up.  Fishtales seems to have more control and more reasonable settings...sort of what I'd expect things to look like at a given setting. 

    Have either of you adjusted tonemapping settings?

    ...as it is a night scene the settings I am using are, ISO 400, f22, speed 1/250.

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,011

    More work on centaurs...

     

     

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  • fixmypcmikefixmypcmike Posts: 19,583

    Love the Stinz-style centaurs.

  • mjc1016mjc1016 Posts: 15,001
    kyoto kid said:

    ...as it is a night scene the settings I am using are, ISO 400, f22, speed 1/250.

    I'd go with slower shutter/lower f-stop...even to where it looks like daylight at first, then once the lights are set, back it off some.  You'll probably end up much different than those settings.

  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054

    ...so is there a PDF or HTML guide for using Real Lights for Daz Studio IRay?

  • ToborTobor Posts: 2,300
    kyoto kid said:

    ...as it is a night scene the settings I am using are, ISO 400, f22, speed 1/250.

    Those are Tri-X black/white (fairly fast film) settings for middle-of-the-day daylight! No wonder it's so dark. A comparable night shot might be 6-10 stops slower. Currently, it doesn't matter what you adjust -- you can do combinations. A comparable night-scene using ISO 400 film might be f/2.8 and maybe 1/60 or so, and then adjust one stop at a time while you do small test renders.

  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054
    edited August 2015

    ...using those values it is like very bright noonday. Keep in mind I have a photometric distant light set at 12% for moonlight.

    Post edited by kyoto kid on
  • ToborTobor Posts: 2,300
    kyoto kid said:

    ...using those values it is like very bright noonday. Keep in mind I have a photometric distant light set at 12% for moonlight.

    What does "12%" mean? If you're using intensity percentages it's no longer acting as a photometric light. Leave it at 100%, and adjust the luminosity. As I noted, the distant light appears to use incident light values. Given the standard scene size unit in D|S is the centimeter, that means lumens per square centimeter incident on the scene. Even a couple of lumens per square centimeter can be a good amount of light.

    Your lighting is off balance. There is no ISO 400 film that can render a night scene like that at f/22 and 1/250 second. It's simply not photographically possible. Your environment is too bright, making you stop down to compensate, and then the scene lights are too low.

     

  • FishtalesFishtales Posts: 6,119
    edited August 2015

    Good Morning, I'm back smiley

    kyoto kid

    Did you manage to download the .duf lighting file and merge it into your scene?

    As has been said, your Tone Mapping setting as too high.

    These are mine.

    Tone Mapping

    Environment. I found a night sky .hdri and deleted the sky dome and plugged it into the dome.

    Last Render

    Click on image for full size.

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    Post edited by Fishtales on
  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054
    edited August 2015

    ...here is an example of the moonlight effect I am trying to reproduce. As Iray only has a bright "sun", and I am using an HDRI which cuts that out anyway, I need to use a distant light instead.

    Unfortunately I cannot find any "available light" photos which don't involve snow that either do not have the moon in the frame and/or are long timed exposures which brighten the overall scene unnatrually. 

    The "fireflies" in the above images are actually caused by the sparkle of the snow.

    Post edited by kyoto kid on
  • daveleitzdaveleitz Posts: 459
    Tobor said:
    kyoto kid said:

    ...using those values it is like very bright noonday. Keep in mind I have a photometric distant light set at 12% for moonlight.

    What does "12%" mean? If you're using intensity percentages it's no longer acting as a photometric light. Leave it at 100%, and adjust the luminosity. As I noted, the distant light appears to use incident light values. Given the standard scene size unit in D|S is the centimeter, that means lumens per square centimeter incident on the scene. Even a couple of lumens per square centimeter can be a good amount of light.

    Your lighting is off balance. There is no ISO 400 film that can render a night scene like that at f/22 and 1/250 second. It's simply not photographically possible. Your environment is too bright, making you stop down to compensate, and then the scene lights are too low.

     

    Agreed.  I'm working on a render of a night time scene and wanted a blue distant light to simulate the moon, which isn't visible.  I'm not attempting physically accurate lighting but wound up using 0.25% on this directional light to get just enough illumination to balance the main spot lights on the subject.

    If in doubt about good ISO, shutter speed, and f-stop values for night time in the city, why not get out a digital camera, preferably a DSLR, and shoot some pictures.  Exposing for the ambient lighting will blow out the electric lighting, so you always want to consider the electric lighting on your subject to be the main factor in exposure.  Shutter speed isn't too important setting in static images and renders.  What you want to use is Exposure Value (EV), which allows a range of f-stops and shutter speeds for any given lighting condition.  Pick an EV and then use the corresponding shutter speed and f-stop to go along with it. 

    http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#Light%20Intensity%20Chart

  • daveleitzdaveleitz Posts: 459
    kyoto kid said:

    ...here is an example of the moonlight effect I am trying to reproduce. As Iray only has a bright "sun", and I am using an HDRI which cuts that out anyway, I need to use a distant light instead.

    Unfortunately I cannot find any "available light" photos which don't involve snow that either do not have the moon in the frame and/or are long timed exposures which brighten the overall scene unnatrually. 

    The "fireflies" in the above images are actually caused by the sparkle of the snow.

    You can do searches on Flickr.  I entered "city night" and got loads of night time images.  The EXIF is usually available below the picture.

  • TaozTaoz Posts: 9,941
    edited August 2015

    Kururu for G2F with EcVh0 Iray Skin Shader. Postwork: a little gamma correction as it was a bit washed out.

     

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    Post edited by Taoz on
  • IceCrMnIceCrMn Posts: 2,129

    here's what I got for a moonlight

    I set the Environment light to Sun-Sky Only

    Environment Intesity; 0.12
    SS Time; 2pm
    SS Blue-Red Tint;  -0.42

    what do you think?

    moonlight test.jpg
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  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,011

    Ice: I was going to suggest expanding the 'sun' diameter a lot to soften the shadows... but thinking about it, I think that looks pretty spot-on.

     

  • IceCrMnIceCrMn Posts: 2,129

    Ice: I was going to suggest expanding the 'sun' diameter a lot to soften the shadows... but thinking about it, I think that looks pretty spot-on.

     

    Thank you :)

    I just ran another test render, we can still use emissive surfaces when using Sun-Sky Only , so that means we can still light up the light bulbs and other stuff

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,011

    I'm not sure that's true? Better make sure.

    Keep in mind you can use the sun on 'Dome and Scene,' just make sure there's no environment map.

     

  • daveleitzdaveleitz Posts: 459

    http://www.daz3d.com/gallery/#images/84117/

    Used an HDRI of the Milky Way, but it just didn't give me quite the ambient I wanted.  So I added a blue distant light to the scene which immediately overpowered everything.  I had to turn it down to 0.25% to give the "moonlight" effect.

  • mjc1016mjc1016 Posts: 15,001
    icecrmn said:

    here's what I got for a moonlight

    I set the Environment light to Sun-Sky Only

    Environment Intesity; 0.12
    SS Time; 2pm
    SS Blue-Red Tint;  -0.42

    what do you think?

    I'd go a little lower on the Environment Intensity, if using additional lights...maybe 0.09.

  • IceCrMnIceCrMn Posts: 2,129

    I have another test render cooking right now,,,I should have something to post in about 10 min or so

  • IceCrMnIceCrMn Posts: 2,129

    k,,here we are,,,Sun-Sky Only mode with emissive tube light

    there is an artifact in the ivy,,but lets not worry about that part

    moonlgiht test emissive.jpg
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  • ToborTobor Posts: 2,300
    kyoto kid said:

    Unfortunately I cannot find any "available light" photos which don't involve snow that either do not have the moon in the frame and/or are long timed exposures which brighten the overall scene unnatrually. 

    If you have Photoshop or GIMP, you can always add or remove the moon, giving you more choices. The latest versions of these programs can accept HDR and EXR files.

    If you use just any image for the night sky (not an HDR), it likely doesn't have the right gamma for use in the Iray Environment dome, or even on a backdrop prop, so it over-exposes. As others have noted, when using the Environment dome you can turn down the Environment Intensity to suit your tastes and needs.

  • daveleitzdaveleitz Posts: 459
    edited August 2015
    Tobor said:
    kyoto kid said:

    Unfortunately I cannot find any "available light" photos which don't involve snow that either do not have the moon in the frame and/or are long timed exposures which brighten the overall scene unnatrually. 

    If you have Photoshop or GIMP, you can always add or remove the moon, giving you more choices. The latest versions of these programs can accept HDR and EXR files.

    If you use just any image for the night sky (not an HDR), it likely doesn't have the right gamma for use in the Iray Environment dome, or even on a backdrop prop, so it over-exposes. As others have noted, when using the Environment dome you can turn down the Environment Intensity to suit your tastes and needs.

    I misunderstood what Kyoto Kid was writing about when I wrote my post above.  I thought he was wanting reference imagery.  Glad you clarified it here. 

    Post edited by daveleitz on
  • j cadej cade Posts: 2,310
    edited August 2015

    I just discovered the wonder of saving normal maps as .hdr files. Look at that skin detail. Also I painted those eye textures by hand and am pretty in love with them.

    New Icon!

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    Post edited by j cade on
  • IceCrMnIceCrMn Posts: 2,129
    j cade said:

    I just discovered the wonder of saving normal maps as .hdr files. Look at that skin detail. Also I painted those eye textures by hand and am pretty in love with them.

    New Icon!

    That is good :)

    What do you mean by saving the normal map as an hdr?Did you open the normal in GIMP and resave it as an hdr?What surface slot did you put it in?How did you do it ? :)

  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,054
    edited August 2015
    icecrmn said:

    here's what I got for a moonlight

    I set the Environment light to Sun-Sky Only

    Environment Intesity; 0.12
    SS Time; 2pm
    SS Blue-Red Tint;  -0.42

    what do you think?

    ...that does look pretty spot on.  My only issue is when using the Sun-Sky there is no detail (eg clouds) to the sky.  That is why I have been using a Photometric distant light and night sky HDRI.  In 3DL it would be easy as I could use one of many skydomes available, but in Iray using Photoreal mode, they block out the sun as you cannot turn shadow casting off.

    I could just go with a photo backdrop but like Tobor mentions one can run into gamma issues. Not so bad in daytime but it does take a bit of adjustment to match the gamma level of the photo so the entire scene looks uniform (like what I had to deal with in the scene with the two young girls at the bus stop).

    Most city night scenes and even HDRIs I've looked at also have buildings, light trails from vehicles, and other lights/elements I do not need in the scene. I just need a good night sky backdrop with some cloud detail to it.  There are so few night HDRIs that focus on the sky rather than the surroundings which is why I have been using the Skies of Economy ones. As the scene is big, I need at least a 10K image.

    The issue with using a backdrop that has the moon in it (even if photoshopped out) is the sky lighting will be incorrect. I need the "moon" to be off to the left of the camera, not dead on from the front.

    Post edited by kyoto kid on
  • j cadej cade Posts: 2,310
    icecrmn said:

    That is good :)

    What do you mean by saving the normal map as an hdr?Did you open the normal in GIMP and resave it as an hdr?What surface slot did you put it in?How did you do it ? :)

    Well I painted the normal map in a combination of blender and substance painter and then saved it as an .hdr file, since hdr have more color data per pixel there's more detail than I would otherwise be able to get in a 4k texture. Obviously if you convert a jpeg to a hdr it won't improve the look of the texture, but I have taken to converting all my .tiffs to hdrs purely because the filesize is so much smaller. Hdr files are really great in terms of file size.

  • jag11jag11 Posts: 885
    edited August 2015

    A WIP, stars missing.

    Post edited by Richard Haseltine on
  • THEJABTHEJAB Posts: 11

    "You're not afraid of the dark are you?"

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This discussion has been closed.